DIY Supermarket

Having decided to tile a particular area with ceramic tiles, you will need to select a basic tile shape. Working with square tiles gives you many options that are best made prior to beginning the project.  

Square tiles make up the bulk of tiles used for walls and floors. There are several different types available, however and it is important to make your decision based not only on personal preference, but also on what will work best for your particular project. 

Plain tiles are square or rectangular tiles and have even edges. There are filed tiles that have spacers on them and these are used for quick installation. Rather than having to use additional spacers, the tile itself has them built-in, so when fitting the next tile you simply push it up against the previous one.
 
There are also square tiles that are used for borders or edges. These tiles have a rounded edge and are placed, as the name suggests, at the border of the area being tiled. Double round edge tiles are tiles with two sides rounded and they are designed for use on corners.

Frieze tiles come in two types. There are tiles with the frieze printed directly on the tile itself and others that make up the frieze itself. The frieze tile is inserted along the top row above the main tiles. This is useful if you wish to have the same frieze, but different coloured tiles in your design.

The final selection of square tiles is decorative. These are normally sold individually and can be used as a single tile within a larger group of unadorned tiles or as the main tiles themselves. Though normally sold singly, it is possible to purchase a large number at one time. When doing so it is best to have the tiles with the same lot number in order to minimise variations in colour.

Garden sheds are useful for the storage of gardening equipment but also for use as workshops, detached offices and studies. Garden sheds are not constructed like a house, however. Their fabric is weaker and lighter in weight and this means that sheds need TLC from time to time. The most vulnerable part of a shed is its roof, where the roof felt becomes worn and thin.

The first step in replacing shed roof felt is completely removing the old felt and as many of the nails as possible. The old felt should be ripped off and a claw hammer used to pull out old nails. Homeowners should use safety goggles and gloves to protect themselves from grit, dust and other debris.

Next, homeowners should check the exposed wood for damage and remove any damaged sections, ensuring that they double check fasciae and battens – areas which are vulnerable to rotting. Homeowners should replace like with like, treating any exposed sections.

On a ridged roof, homeowners should start at the lower edge on one side with a strip fixed long ways on each roof edge. They should use galvanised nails every 50 millimetres along the fascia and every 150 millimetres along the top edge. If the ridge has not been reached, homeowners should repeat on the other side before cutting a third length of felt to a minimum width of 200 millimetres, aiming for an overlap of at least 50 millimetres. They should use felt adhesive to seal this joint, covering the nails underneath. On a flat roof, DIY enthusiasts should follow the same procedure from the lowest edge to the highest.

Over time, food waste and various solids can accumulate and adhere to the trap beneath a kitchen sink and eventually clog it.  The connection is also prone to developing leaks over time through bumping, as other items are stored beneath the sink.  You can replace the trap itself or the entire drain assembly.

Use pliers to take out the old assembly and then attach a short tailpiece to the sink basket’s threads.  Secure it in place with a nylon washer and a slip nut and then slide the slip nut on together with a nylon washer to secure the longer tailpiece.

The tailpiece can then be connected, its length determined by the precise location of the drain line coming from the wall.  It should come to the base of the bottom of the wall drain line, although if it is too long, it can later be cut down to size.

The P-trap is then attached to the tailpiece and tightened before positioning the trap arm of the P-trap and marking where to cut it so that it fits perfectly the wall drain line.  The arm is then removed and cut to length with a PVC tube cutter or a hacksaw.

Next, slide the slip nut and washer over the cut end of the arm before inserting the arm into the wall drain.  Then align the P-trap arm and tighten before also tightening the arm to the wall drain line.

Attach the short tail piece to the other sink bowl and secure the other end of the connecting drain line to the shorter tail piece before installing an escutcheon plate to cover the gap between the wall and the wall drain line.

Remember to place a bucket beneath the sink before starting work.

Many homeowners do not realise how easy it is to refurbish fireplace surrounds.  Refurbishing the surround will almost always be cheaper than replacing it.  An attractive fireplace is an excellent selling point, and improves the look and character of any home.

Fireplace surrounds are most commonly made of wood, marble, or cast iron.

When refurbishing a wood fireplace surround, use coarse sandpaper to remove any old varnish and paint from the wood, and then sand it smooth with fine sandpaper.  You can also use a chemical stripper, but this will remove some of wood’s natural oils and dry it out.  Use filler that is the same colour as the wood to repair any holes or large cracks.  When the filler is completely dry, you should sand the surround again.  Coat the wood with two or three layers of wax to finish.

Marble surrounds must be thoroughly cleaned with a coarse cloth and warm, soapy water.  Combine kaolin powder with epoxy glue to fill in any cracks or small holes.  When the filler is dry, use silicon carbide paper to rub down and polish the marble.

If possible, it is usually worth it to have cast iron surrounds professionally stripped.  If this is not possible, use a chemical blanket stripping kit to remove all layers of paint from the cast iron surround.  Do not scrap or chip at the paint as this will damage the soft iron.  Once all the old paint is removed, apply a rust converter and then iron paste to restore the cast iron to its original silvery-grey colour.   

The mortar between brickwork can deteriorate over the years and need replacing. Re-filling these joints with mortar is known as re-pointing. Small areas of pointing on exterior walls can be taken on as a DIY project. It can sometimes be tricky achieving an accurate mortar colour-match on larger expanses, and so bigger projects are sometimes better left to the professionals.

That said, a small area of re-pointing on an exterior garden wall, for example, is a pretty straightforward exercise.

Check the weather before you start pointing, if it is raining put it off until another day. Rain and pointing do not mix.

Start by raking out the mortar between the bricks using a mortar rake. A depth of approximately 15cms should be enough. Use a cold chisel to chip out any stubborn bits. Remember to wear protective goggles and a mask to guard from dust and flying pieces of mortar. Heavy-duty gloves are advisable to protect your hands.

Next, dampen the joints by spraying them with water. This helps the new mortar to bond with the old.

Read the instructions on the mortar packet and mix up accordingly. Do not allow the mix to get too sloppy as this risks staining the surrounding bricks and ruining the finish.

Once you are happy with your mortar mix, use a jointing tool to carefully work it into the gaps between the bricks, creating a smooth recess. Fill the ‘beds’ (vertical joints) first, then follow up with the ‘perks’, (horizontal joints).

Leave the mortar to harden for a while, then any excess should be scraped away. Before it is totally dry, using a soft brush gently sweep away any bits of loose mortar remaining, taking care not to dislodge any of the fresh mortar you have just applied in the joints.

The Basics of Wiring

All domestic electrical devices operate using plugs and sockets. Because of the degree of wear and tear many plugs are subjected to, they are often the first component that fails. The good news is that wiring a plug is actually fairly straightforward; nevertheless, it is crucial you accomplish this correctly, for safety reasons as much as getting that hoover or hairdryer working again.

Step by Step

The obvious sign that you will need to give an electrical plug some attention is when the device it is attached to stops working. Firstly, to access the plug you will need to unscrew the large screw. This will reveal a plastic clamp, positioned over a thick conductor wire, protecting the three wires beneath.

It could well be the case that the wires have become detached from their terminals within the plug. Often the ends where the plastic coating gives way to bare metal will have become frayed and broken free. Simply expose more of the wiring by cutting away the coloured plastic, but not enough to sever it and then feed the metal back into the terminal. Stripping the wire is made much easier with wire-cutters, which are specifically designed for this task.

When unscrewing at the terminals, take care to do so carefully, as the retaining screws are tiny and easily lost. You should not need to completely unscrew them, just ease them out far enough to allow the wire to nudge back into position. Finally, replace the cover and tighten the large retaining screw.

For a professional finish to your newly tiled floor you should carefully grout over the tiles you have laid.  Thoroughly mix floor tile mix with water, ensuring that there are no lumps.  Alternatively, you could use a grout that has already been mixed.  This article gives you a brief guide on how to grout your newly tiled floor.

Before you begin grouting you must make sure that your adhesive is completely set.  If you have laid glazed tiles then you can simply pour the grout over them and then spread the grout using a rubber-edge grout spreader.  However, with a natural stone surface, or if the tiles are absorbent, you should use a chemical sealant before and after grouting.  With stone tiles you should mix the grout very dry and press it into the joints of the tiles.  Keep the tiles themselves as grout free as possible.

Your grout will begin to set.  When it does, you should press it smoothly into all of the joints using a grout finisher.  This will make the joints water resistant and is therefore very important.  Now clean away the excess grout with a damp sponge. 

The grout should then be left to harden for approximately one hour.  You can then wipe it with a damp cloth and wipe the tiles with a dry cloth.  The edge of the floor should then be sealed with a flexible sealant.  For best results you should leave the floor for about 48 hours.

Choosing a New Handle

If you visit your local DIY superstore to treat yourself to a brand new doorknob or handle, you will be spoiled for choice. As well as the style, you should also remember that it will need to put up with a great deal of wear and tear, so also think practicality. Other considerations might be location; for example, a bathroom handle will also require a locking mechanism. Lever-style handles can be left or right-handed and you will need a pawl, which is the same length as that on the original doorknob.

Step by Step Guide

Firstly, remove the faceplate screws. Also remove the screws that are holding the handle. The handles will no longer be attached when you take out the two screws on the knob plate, so be ready to catch them. Now pull the handles off both sides.  

The next step is to push out the faceplate and pawl through the opening. Remove the strike plate by loosening the two retaining screws. If necessary, you may wish to replace the faceplate, depending how damaged it is.

Depending on the doorknob you have chosen, you might have a choice of faceplates. Be sure to select one that matches the opening in the door. Size up the strike plate you are intending to fit, with the holes in your door and jamb, it is also important to measure the pawl mechanisms. If necessary, use a hammer and chisel to adjust the door and jamb openings.

Place the faceplate and new pawl mechanism into the door, before screwing down the pawl mechanism and slotting in the handles. 

Old tile grout can make even the most stunning floors and walls look unattractive. Tile grout is prone to cracking and the development of mildew in damp areas such as bathrooms. However, you can re-grout your tiles to make your flooring and walls look as good as new. The re-grouting of tiling is a simple and affordable task.

Before you begin re-grouting your tiles, you will need to choose the colour of grout. Choose a colour that matches your tiles.  Bathroom tiles are normally grouted in white but there is a wide choice of alternative colours.

Use a grout saw to rake along the grout lines; alternatively you can use a small screwdriver. Take care not to injure yourself when you perform this step, as the edges of tiles can be as sharp as glass.

Once all the grout is removed, vacuum the space in between the tiles to remove any debris.

Mix up the grout according to the instructions found on the product packaging. When it has been left for the required time to cure, push the grout into the spaces between the tiles, using a sponge on walls or a float on tiled floors.

Run the sponge/float over the tiles to remove any unwanted grout. Wait ten minutes and clean any excess grout from the top of the tiles.

Leave the grout to dry for three days before sealing the grout with the aid of a grout sealer.

Perhaps the most important factor when it comes to fitting blinds so that they look like they were installed professionally and fit correctly is to ensure that the measurements you make are accurate. 

It is important to use a metal tape measure when making your measurements, as a plastic one is likely to stretch.  You should start by measuring the width and then move on to the height; this is because the width is what will be listed first when you order the blinds from the manufacturer.  Always be sure to write down your measurements immediately; you should never rely on your memory.

Additionally, if you are fitting blinds in a number of windows, you should measure all of the windows separately, even if it appears that they are the same size.  Room size, window placement and other factors may trick your brain into thinking that the windows are exactly the same size when the reality may be that they are not.

Finally, you should take the measurement for each dimension three times and, if there is a minor discrepancy, use the smallest measurement.  Windows are not always straight, and using the smallest measurement will help to ensure the best possible fit.