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Once the valves on a radiator have been turned to isolate it from the main water supply, you need to confirm that they are indeed doing this before attempting to remove the radiator from the rest of the system.  Open the air-release valve at the top of the radiator with the radiator key that was supplied with it.  To begin, water will spurt out because of the internal pressure, but this will subside after a few seconds.  If this does not happen, you will be alerted that one of the valves has not fully closed off and will have to check them both again.

When you are able to open the air-release valve without water flowing out, you will know that both valves have been closed properly, but then you must make sure to close the air-release valve again.  If you do not do this, air will be able to get into the radiator and force water out onto the floor when the union nuts at the base of the radiator are undone.

Once you have established that no water is flowing into the radiator, you can undo the big union nuts at each end, the ones that connect the radiator to isolation valves.  At this point the radiator will still be full of water, but it cannot come out as long as air does not enter.  Once both the union valves are undone and the radiator has been disconnected from the valve, it can be simply lifted away from its brackets.

There are two types of underfloor electric heating systems available in the UK.  Heating cables and mats are generally used for under tile heating, whilst carbon film heating elements are used under wood or laminate floors.  This type of floor heating system is ideal for areas where an increase in the finished floor height is undesirable.

The heating cables and mats used for under tile heating have a thickness of just 3mm.  The cables have twin core resistance wire conductors, covered by a sheath of PTFE, a screening foil, an earth braid and lastly, an outer jacket of PVC, which makes the cables waterproof.  When an electric current is passed through them the cable heats up; the maximum temperature achieved will depend on the design of the conductor wires.

Electric Cables

Loose cables can be used for floor heating, but the installer must tape the cables in place, which can be time consuming.  Generally, cables are only recommended for small areas, such as bathrooms.  Some experience in their fitting is required to achieve optimal results.

Heating Mats

Underfloor heating cables can also be supplied on a mesh backing, to produce heating mats.  The output of these mats varies, allowing them to be used in different areas.  Conservatories lose more heat than other areas of the home and so require a higher output. 

Heating mats are a better option for anyone carrying out a DIY underfloor heating project.  The mat backing can be cut easily, so the mats can be fitted around obstacles, such as fitted units or kitchen islands.  In addition, it is possible to remove the heating cables from the mat and use the loose cable for any areas that are hard to access; for example, door recesses.

Hydronic heating systems are one option when it comes to underfloor heating.  These systems differ from electric underfloor heating systems in that they use a mixture of water and anti-freeze to heat the home.  This anti-freeze may be propylene glycol.  It serves as a heat transferring liquid trapped in a closed loop that circulates under the floor and to a boiler.

A key aspect of a hydronic heating system is the underfloor heating pipe.  Different kinds of pipes are used based on the specific needs of the project and heating system.  Copper or steel are more traditional materials to use for an underfloor heating pipe, and they are still in use in some locations.  Nowadays, newer materials like plyethylene are becoming more popular.

Many people who get an underfloor heating system in their home try to install the system themselves.  This is possible with DIY underfloor heating kits.  However, these underfloor heating kits are more suited to electric underfloor heating systems.  These systems use simple mats and wires to create heat under the floor.

A hydronic heating system usually cannot be installed by the homeowner alone.  This system is a little more complicated than an electric heating system, particularly because these systems include elements such as boilers.  Things like boilers and circulators will require skilled designers and professional trades people to install.  The controls, such as fluid pressure and temperature, will also require professional installation. 

Luckily, while professional installation is needed, modern innovations like sub-stations can make the process quicker and cheaper.

Underfloor heating systems are often lauded for their ability to heat homes, as well as their energy efficiency when compared to traditional heating systems.  They also have another big benefit, however.  Many see them as safer systems than traditional heating systems.

Underfloor heating systems are never going to create a burn hazard.  This is thanks to their being embedded in the very floor of the home or room.  Because they are placed under floor covers, like tile and stone, underfloor heating systems do not occupy any wall space and therefore do not create any sort of burn hazard. 

By the same token, with underfloor heating, there will not be as much of a tripping or incidental contact hazard.  Unlike traditional heating, there is no heater or unit sitting out where it can be bumped into.

Underfloor heating systems can also speed absorption of liquids that get on the floor.  Because the heat provided by the system is rising up out of the floor itself, it can cause liquids to evaporate more quickly.  This would be particularly helpful in a room like a bathroom where a shower could create puddles, or a kitchen where spills are not infrequent.

These kinds of safety features have sometimes made underfloor heating systems more popular choices for healthcare facilities.  Places like hospitals and homes for the elderly have sometimes chosen underfloor heating systems not only for their efficiency, but also for these safety benefits for their patients and residents.

Bleeding the radiators in your home is a straightforward task, but one that helps keep their efficiency high and your heating bills down.

A small amount of air will gradually enter any heating system over time. This occurs naturally and is not harmful, but if left unchecked will reduce the efficiency of the system. Air bubbles become trapped in radiators, reducing the efficiency of the water flow and thus the heating efficiency.

To bleed a radiator you will require a radiator key, a jug or other container and an old cloth or tissue. Before you begin, ensure that the heating system has been off for a few hours, as there may still be very warm water in the radiator pipes.

Every radiator has a small valve at the top, which resembles a square-headed screw. To loosen these valves, apply the radiator key and slowly turn in an anti-clockwise direction. This usually does not take a great deal of force. As you loosen the screw, ensure that you have a container beneath to catch any escaping water. Do not completely unscrew the valve; just loosen it enough to release any trapped air. When all the air has escaped, the radiator water will begin to seep out. At this point, the radiator has been bled so you can tighten the valve once again.

You should repeat this process with every radiator in your home, in order to maintain the efficiency of the heating system. This type of maintenance should be conducted on a regular basis, every few months or so.

DIY underfloor heating is not a particularly difficult home upgrade to install.  However, proper measuring can save time and effort if done in advance.
 
DIY underfloor heating is made even easier by underfloor heating kits.  These kits come with everything the homeowner needs in order to install an underfloor heating system in any room in their home.  However, there are some steps that the homeowner should take themselves.
 
One such step is measuring.  Underfloor heating kits will come with mats or wires that are ready to be placed in any room in the home, but determining just where to put these mats or wires is up to the homeowner.  It is therefore important to measure the room that will receive an underfloor heating system before doing any of the installation.  After finding the total length and width of the room where the heating system will go, write down those measurements for future reference.
 
Next, determine how much of the room actually needs underfloor heating.  In a bathroom, for example, the area under the shower does not need floor heating.  The area in front of the sink, however, does.  The same goes in a kitchen, where there is no sense in installing heating under a refrigerator, but perhaps in front of it instead.
 
Figuring where the heating needs to go specifically will shrink down the measurements of the room.  It may be surprising to learn that you do not need to install as much heating as you thought you did.

The installation of a boiler that entails the discharge of combustion by-products into the existing chimney will involve fitting a flexible stainless steel flue liner; otherwise gases can condense on the flue walls and damage the brickwork.  Should condensation run back down the flue, this can cause boiler corrosion.

The liner works by trapping an insulating layer of air between it and the flue, and prevents condensation forming.  You have to make sure you use the correct type of liner, as there are different types for oil and gas boilers.

Solid fuel boilers preclude the use of flexible liners, and you have to line these by either using sectional liner or pumped-in lining of lightweight insulating material.

Drop a weighted string down the flue from the chimney first of all to measure the length of liner you will need. Then, chip the flaunching away from the stack and lift off the old chimney.  Drop the string down again to a helper at the other end and attach it to the plug-in nose cone, then start lowering the liner into the flue.  When it reaches the bottom, secure the top end in the clamping plate and fit a terminal cowl over its top.

Once the liner is securely in place you can remake the flaunching using sand mortar, sloping it for rainwater runoff.  At the bottom end, fit the blanking-off plate around the liner just above the boiler to create an insulated air column and connect the liner into the flue using fire cement to make an airtight joint. 

If you are thinking of purchasing an underfloor heating system, insulation is important and should be considered an integral part of the system.  If the underfloor heating system is to be laid on a sub-floor that does not have insulation beneath it then it should be installed directly beneath the underfloor heating system.

Advantages of Insulation

Underfloor heating Insulation will improve heat up times and minimise the cost of running the system.  Companies offer a variety of underfloor heating insulation options and you should choose one that is appropriate for the type of floor that is being installed.  Insulation boards come in a range of prices and each had its own advantages and disadvantages.  Some can only be installed under tiled floors whilst others are suitable for a range of floors.

Insulation Primers

Some companies also offer primers, which can improve the efficiency of the underfloor heating system by reducing heat loss.  The primer is simply applied, using a roller or paintbrush.  However, it is not intended to be an alternative to thermal insulation boards, but is designed for use in situations where the increase in floor height associated with thermal backing boards would cause problems.

Fitting Insulation

Insulation boards can be applied to concrete floors using a flexible concrete adhesive.  The boards should then be sealed, using an appropriate sealant.  For wooden floors, the boards are applied using an adhesive and then screwed down.  In wet areas, such as bathrooms, it is recommended that the fixing hole is primed with a silicone sealant before the boards are screwed down.

Although underfloor heating systems are very popular, are easy to install and cost effective, they do have some drawbacks. It is crucial to choose the most suitable underfloor heating kit for your home as, if you get this wrong, you may have high running costs, not enough heat, or damaged floors.

When installing heating under a wooden floor, you need to check whether it is likely to warp or shrink. Sometimes wood needs to be well acclimatised before laying. As well as possible effects on your floor coverings, you need to bear in mind that laying underfloor heating on top of an existing floor will raise the height and affect skirting boards and doors. Also, furniture can be dried out by underfloor heating, and it should not be installed under fitted cupboards as it will create condensation and affect the contents.

Modern underfloor heating systems are extremely reliable, long lasting and maintenance-free and have come a long way since the early days. However, both electric and water underfloor heating do still take a little longer to heat up compared to traditional radiators. If encased in screed, the electrical elements or water pipes usually need to heat that up first before the floor itself can be heated. Pipes, cables or mats which have direct contact with the floor, with a dry fixing, usually heat up more quickly. If the underfloor heating is simply providing background warmth, and is kept on more or less continuously, this isn’t a problem.

Underfloor heating is an ideal way to keep your feet warm on long cold winter nights.  It is often used in areas such as bathrooms, where tiled floors are often laid.  Tile is notoriously cold under foot and so having underfloor heating feels like sheer luxury when getting out of the bath or shower.

Underfloor heating is not designed to heat entire rooms and replace your central heating system.  Instead, it warms the floor, which makes it lovely to walk around barefoot and is suitable to be used under various types of flooring material.  It is more commonly used under tile and laminate flooring.

Underfloor heating insulation is used to save on heat wastage.  It ensures that the heat is directed upwards, into the room and ensures that the floor holds the heat for longer, making it more energy efficient.  Underfloor heating systems can be electric or water powered and both are cost effective.  They can be used in solar powered homes just as effectively as mains powered properties and are fairly cheap and easy to install.

Underfloor heating kits can be bought from larger DIY shops and take very little skill to install.  Electric underfloor heating systems are easier for the DIY enthusiast to install than water underfloor heating systems, especially as additional plumbing may be necessary.

Underfloor heating can be used in every room of the house.  The heating system comes complete with thermostat controls, which enable the temperature in each room to be set individually.  Rooms can be isolated and the heating switched off and some systems include timers, so it is possible to set the on and off times.